马拉喀什见闻
1、 As the corpse went past the flies left the restaurant table in a cloud and
rushed after it, but they came back a few minutes later.
尸体被抬过去的时候,成群的苍蝇嗡嗡地飞离了餐馆的饭桌, 尾随尸体去,几分钟后又嗡嗡地飞了回来。
2、The little crows of mourners
- all me and boys, no women
—threade
their way across the marker place between the piles of pomegranates and
the taxis and the camels, wailing a short chant over and over again. What really appeals to the flied is that the corpses here are never put into coffins; they are merely wrapped in a piece of ray and carried on a rough wooden bier on the shoulders of four friends. When the friends get to the burying- ground they hack an oblong hole afoot or two deep, dump the body in it and fling over it a little no identifying mark of any kind. The burying-ground is merely a huge waste of hummocky earth. Like a derelict building-lot. After a month or two no one can even be certain where his own relatives are buried.
of the dried-up, lumpy earth, which is like broken brick. No gravestone, no name,
一支人数不多的送葬队伍 - 其中老老小小全是男的,没有女人 ——挤过一堆堆的石榴,穿行在出租车和骆驼之间,迂回着穿过 市场,嘴里还一遍遍地哀号着一支短促的悲歌。真正令苍蝇感兴趣 的是这里的尸体从来都不装进棺材,而是只用一块破布裹着,放在 一副粗糙的木制担架上,有死者的四位朋友抬去送葬。达到坟场后, 朋友们首先挖出一块一两英尺深的长方形的坑,将尸体扔入坑中, 再在上面丢一些像碎砖头一样的干土块。没有墓碑,没有留名,也 没有任何身份标志,坟场只不过是一片巨大的如同一块废弃的建筑 工地般土丘林立的荒原。一两个月之后,就谁也找不到自己亲人的 坟墓之处了。
3、 When you walk through a town like this - two hundred thousand in habita nts
of whom at least twenty thousa nd own literally no thi ng except the rags they stand op in more
how easily they die, it is always difficult to believe that you are walk ing
- when you see how the people live, and still
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among huma n beings. All col on ial empires are in reality foun ded upon this fact. The people have brow n faces Are
they really the sane flesh as your self? Do they eve n have n ames? Or are they coral in sects? They rise out of the earth, they sweat and starve for a few years, and then they sink back into the nameless mounds of the graveyard and n into the soil. Sometimes, out for a walk as you break your way through the regularity in the bumps tells you that you are walk ing over skelet ons.
— besides, there are so many o them!
merely a kind of un differe ntiated brow n stuff, about as in dividual as bees or
obody no tices that they are gone. And eve n the graves themselves soon fade back
prickly pear, you no tice that it is rather bumpy un derfoot, and only a certa in
当你穿行于这样的城镇中一一 20万居民中,至少有2万人除 了一身勉强蔽体的破衣烂衫之外,一无所有 -- 当你 _____ 是如何生活,又如何轻易地死去时,你总是很难相信自己是行走在 人类之中。实际上,这是所有殖民帝国建立的基础。这里的人都有 一张棕色的脸一一而且,人数是如此之多!他们真的和你一样同 属人类吗?难道他们也有名有姓吗?或者说他们像一群群蜜蜂或珊 瑚虫一样,只是一种彼此无法区分的棕色东西吗?他们来到世上, 受苦受累,忍饥挨饿的生活数年,然后被埋在一个个无名的小坟丘 里。谁也不会注意到他们的离去。有时,当你外出散步穿过仙人掌 丛时,你会注意到脚下的土地格外不平,只有那些隆起的包块有规 律的出现时,你才意识到你正踩在死人的骷髅上。
4、 I was feed ing one of the gazelles in the public garde ns.
在公园里,我正在给一只瞪羚喂食。
5、 Gazelles are almost the only animals that look good to eat when they are still
alive, in fact, one can hardly look at their hindquarters without thinking of a mind, for though it took the piece of bread I was holding out it obviously did not like me. It nibbled rapidly at the bread, then lowered its head and tried to butt me, then took another nibble and then butted again. Probably its idea was
mint sauce. They gazelle I was feeding seemed to know that this thought was in my
that if it could drive me away the bread would somehow remain hanging in mid-air.
瞪羚几乎是唯一一种活时就让人觉得很美味的动物。实际上, 光是看到它的两条后腿就会令人联想到薄荷酱。我正在喂食的这只 瞪羚几乎已经看出我的这点心思,尽
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管它叼走了我手上的面包,但 它显然对我这个人并没有好感。它迅速地轻咬了一口面包,然后低 下头,试图用脑袋顶我,然后又啃了口面包,又顶了一次。它大概 以为,如果把我撵跑,面包仍会在半空中。
6、 An Arab navy working on the path nearby lowered his heavy hoe and sidled
slowly towards us. He looked from the gazelle to the bread and from the bread to quite like this before. Finally he said shyly in French: “ I could eat some of that bread.
the gazelle, with a sort of quiet amazement, as though he had never seen anything
”
在附近小路上干活的一个阿拉伯民工放下笨重的锄头,慢慢地 侧着身子走向我们。他那诧异的目光从瞪羚移向面包,又从面包移 向瞪羚,好像他是第一次见到这样的情形。最后他用法语怯怯的问 道:“那面包我能吃点吗?”
7、 I tore off a piece and he stowed it gratefully in some secret place under his rages. This man is an employee of the municipality.
我撕下一片面包,他感激涕零地把面包收在破衣服下的隐蔽地方。 这个人是市政当局的一名雇工。
8 When you go through the Jewish quarters you gather some idea of what the medieval ghettoes were probably like. Under their Moorish rulers the Jew were only allowed to own land in certa in restricted areas, and after centuries of this kind of treatment they have ceased to bother about overcrowding. Many of the streets are a good deal less tha n six feet wide, the houses are completely win dowless, and sore-eyed childre n cluster everywhere in un believable nu mbers, like clouds of flied. Dow n the cen tre of the street there is gen erally running a little river of uri ne.
当你穿过犹太人聚居区时,你可能就会了解中世纪的贫民区大 概是个什么样子。在摩尔人的统治下,犹太人只被允许在几个规定 的区域内拥有土地,遭受了几个世纪这样的待遇后,他们已经不再 为拥挤不堪的居住条件而烦恼了。很多街道远远不足
6英尺宽,房
屋根本没有窗户,眼睛肿痛的孩子成群结队,随处可见,像成群的 苍蝇,数也数不清。小便通常沿着街道中心流成一条小河。
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9、
In the bazaar huge families of Jews, all dressed in the long black robe and little black skull-cap, are working in dark fly-infested booths that look like caves. A carpe nter sits cross-legged at a prehistoric lathe, tur ning chair-legs at light ning speed. He works the lathe with a bow in his right hand and guides the chisel with his left foot, and thanks to a lifetime of sitting in this position his left leg is warped out of shape. At his side his grandson, aged six, is already start ing on the simpler parts of the job.
在集市上,一大家子一大家子的犹太人都身穿黑色长袍,头戴 黑色无檐便帽,在犹如同洞穴般的窝棚里劳作,里面阴暗无光,苍 蝇遍布。一个木工盘腿坐在一架古老的车窗旁,飞速地旋制着椅子 腿。他右手拿弓开动车床,左脚操纵着凿子。由于长期保持这种坐 姿,他的左腿已经弯曲变形了。他年仅 6岁的小孙子也已经开始在 身边帮忙干一些简单的活了。
10、 I was just pass ing the coppersmiths
booths whe n somebody no ticed
that I was lighting a cigarette. Instantly, from the dark holes all round, there was a fren zied rush of Jews, many of them old gran dfathers with flow ing grey beards, all clamouri ng for a cigarette. Eve n a bli nd man somewhere at the back of one of the booths heard a rumour of cigarettes and came crawling out, groping in the air with his hand. In about a minute I had used op the whole packet. None of these people, I suppose, works less tha n twelve hours a day, and every one of them looks on a cigarette as a more or less impossible luxury.
当我走过铜匠铺子时,有人注意到我正点着一支香烟。一瞬间,
那些犹太人从四周的黑洞穴里疯狂地冲了出来,他们当中有很多人 是白须飘飘的老人,都吵着要烟抽。甚至在后面的窝棚里的一个盲 人听到要烟的吵嚷声也爬了出来,伸手在空中乱摸。大约
1分钟,
我那一包香烟就全分完了。我想,这些人当中没有人每天工作会少 于12小时,但他们个个都把一根香烟,看成是一种几乎无法得到 的奢侈品。
11、 As the Jews live in self-contained communities they follow the same
trades as the Arabs, except for agriculture. Fruit sellers, potters,
silversmiths, blacksmiths, butchers, leather-workers, tailors, watercarriers,
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beggars, porters - whichever way you look you see nothing
but Jews. As a matter of fact there are thirteen thousand of them, all
living in the space of a few acres. A good job Hitler wasn' h ere. Perhaps he from the Arabs but from the poorer Europea ns.
was on his way, however. You hear the usual dark rumours about Jews, not only
由于犹太人生活在一个自给自足的社会里,他们与阿拉伯人从 事一样的行业,农业除外。他们当中有水果贩子、陶制工、银匠、 铁匠、屠夫、皮匠、裁缝、运水工、乞丐、脚夫等
-放眼望去,至V
处都是犹太人。事实上,在这块仅几亩大的土地上,竟然生活着 13000个犹太人。幸运的是,希特勒并未光顾过这里。或许他曾 经想过来这里。你常听到的有关犹太人的不利传言,不仅来自阿拉 伯人,还来自较穷的欧洲人。
12、
“ Yes mon vieux, they tool my job away from me and gave it to a Jew.
— everythi
Tee Jews! They ' re the real rulers of this country, you know. They got all the mon ey. They con trol the banks, finance ng.
“老兄啊,他们夺走我的工作给了犹太人。这些犹太人啊!你 知道吧,他们才是这个国家真正的统治者。他们卷走了全部的钱, 他们还控制了银行、财政-一切的一切。”
13、 “ But ” , I said, “ isn ' t it a fact that the average Jew is a labourer
working for about a penny an hour? ”
“但是”我说道,“事实上一般的犹太人不是都在为每小时一 便士的微博工钱而劳作吗?”
14、 “ Ah, that ' s only for show! They ' re all money lenders really. They cunning, the Jews. ”
“啊,那只不过是装装样子罢了。实际上他们都是些放贷获利 的人。他们很狡猾,这些犹太人。”
15、In just the same way, a couple of hun dred years ago, poor old women used to
be burned for witchcraft when they could not even work eno ugh magic to get
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themselves a square meal.
颇为相似的是,几百年前,有些可怜的老妇人常常被当成巫婆 活活烧死,但事实上,她们连为自己变出一顿像样的饭菜的巫术都 没有
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16、 All people who work with their hands are partly in visible, and the more
important the work they do, the less visible they are. Still, a white skin is always fairly conspicuous. In northern Europe, when you see a labourer ploughi ng a field, you probably give him a sec ond gla nee. In a hot eoun try, any where south of Gibraltar or east of Suez, the cha nces are that you don ' t even see him. I have noticed this again and again. In a tropical landscape one ' s eye takes in everything except the human bein gs. It talks in the dried-up soil, the prickly pear, the palm tree and the dista nt mountain, but it always misses the peasa nt hoe ing at his patch. He is the same colour as the earth, and a great deal less in teresti ng to look at.
所有那些靠自己的双手劳动的人一般都容易被忽视,而且他们所 干的活越是重要,就越不易被人所知。然而,白皮肤却总是那么显眼。 在北欧,你若看到有人在田里耕地,你可能会多看他两眼。而在一个 热带国家,直布罗陀以南或者苏伊士运河以东的任何一个地方,你就 可能看不到在田里工作的人。这种情形我已经注意到多次了。在热带 地区,我们可以看到一切东西,唯独看不到人, 。那干巴巴的土地、 仙人掌、棕榈树和远方的山岭被尽收眼底,但在地里耕作的农民却往 往没人看见。他们的肤色和土地的颜色一样,却远不及土地的颜色吸 引人的目光。
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17、 It is only because of this that the starved countries of Asia and Africa are
accepted as tourist resorts. No one would think of running cheap trips to the Distressed Areas. But where the human beings have brown skins their poverty is simply not noticed. What does Morocco mean to a Frenchman? An orange grove or a job in Government service. Or to an Englishman? Camels, castles, palm trees, Foreign Legionnaires, brass trays, and bandits. One could probably live there for years without noticing that for nine-tenths of the people the reality of life is an endless back-breaking struggle to wring a little food out of an eroded soil.
正因如此,一些贫困潦倒的亚非国家倒是成了旅游胜地。没人 会想组织游客去贫民窟旅游,尽管费用低廉。但在居住着棕色皮肤 的人的地方,贫困却完全无人在意。摩洛哥对法国人而言意味着什 么呢?无非就是一片橘园或者一份部门的差事。对于英国人呢? 不过是骆驼、城堡、棕榈树、外团、黄铜托盘和土匪。即使一 个人在那里生活多年,他可能都无法意识到:对于当地百分之九十 的居民而言,生活是一场为了从贫瘠的土地上榨出一点食物而进行 的无休无止、艰苦卓绝的抗争。
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18 Most of Morocco is so desolate that no wild ani mal bigger tha n a hare can live on
it. Huge areas which were once covered with forest have turned into a treeless waste where the soil is exactly like broken-up brick. Nevertheless a good deal if it is cultivated, with frightful labour. Everything is done by hand. Long lines of woman, bent double like inverted capital Ls, work their way slowly across the fields, tearing up the prickly weeds with their hand, and the peasantgathering lucerne for fodder pulls it up stalk by stalk in stead of reap ing it, thus sav ing an inch or two on each stalk. The plough is a wretched woode n thing, so frail that one can easily carry it on one ' s shoulder, and fitted underneath with a rough iron spike
which stirs the soil to a depth of about four in ches. This is as much as the stre ngth of the ani mals is equal to. It is usual to plough with a cow and a don key yoked together. Two don keys would not be quite strong eno ugh, but on the other hand two cows would cost a little more to feed. The peasa nts possess no harrows, they merely plough the soil several times over in differe nt direct ion s, fin ally leav ing it in rough furrows, after which the whole field has to be shaped with hoes into small obl ong patches to con serve water. Except for a day or two after the rare rain storms there is n ever eno ugh water. Along the edges of the fields cha nn els are hacked out to a depth of thirty or forty feet to get at the tiny trickles which run through the subsoil.
摩洛哥的大部分土地都很荒凉,以至于那里生存的最大的野生动物就是野 兔。大片曾经覆盖着森林的土地现在已经变成寸草不生的荒野,那土壤如同碎 砖头一般。即使在这种条件下,还是有相当多的土地被开垦出来,所有的活儿 都是手工完成的,劳动的艰辛程度可想而知。排着长队的女人们像倒着的大写 字母“ L” 一样弯着腰,一边沿着田地慢慢地移动着身体,一边用手拔掉带刺 的野草。为了喂养牲口,农民们采集紫花苜蓿时还要收集剩下的根茎,他们用 手一株株地拔,这样就可以多留下来一两村的根茎。犁是木头制的劣等品,一 点都不结实,一个人轻而易举就能抗在肩上。犁的底部安着一个粗糙的铁钉, 它可以翻地约四英寸深。这和拉犁牲口的力量差不多大。拉犁时通常是把一头 牛和一头驴套在一起。用两头驴的话力气往往不够大,用两头牛的话,所需的 饲料有太多了。农民们都没有耕地用的耙,他们只能顺着不同的方向把地犁上 几遍,犁出一道道不平的垄沟,最后再用锄头把整块地整成一块块用来蓄水的 长方形小畦。除了难得的暴雨之后的一两天之外,这里总是缺水。所以,农民 们沿着田边挖出一道道深达 壤的涓涓细流 汇聚起来。
30-40英尺的沟渠,以便把下层土
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19、 Every after noon a file of very old wome n passed dow n the road outside my
house, each carrying a load of firewood. All of them are mummified with age and the sun, and all of them are tiny .It seems to be gen erally the case in primitive com mun ities that the wome n, whe n they get beyond a certain age, shrink to the size of children. One day a poor creature who could not have bee n more tha n four feet tall crept past me un der a vast load of wood. I stopped her and put a five-sou piece (a little more than a farthing) into her hand. She answered with a shrill wail, almost a scream, which was partly gratitude but mai nly surprise. I suppose that from her point of view, by taking any notice of her, I seemed almost to be violating a law of nature. She accepted her status as an old woma n, that is to say, as a beast of burde n. Whe n a family is travelling it is quite usual to see a father and a grown-up son riding ahead on don keys, and an okd woma n follow ing on foot, carry ing the baggage.
我家门口的那条路上每天下午都会有一对老妇人背着柴火走过。 因为年纪大了和风吹日晒的缘故,她们个个都变得如木乃伊般干瘪、 身材瘦小。在原始社会里,妇女超过了一定的年纪,身材便会萎缩 得如孩子般大小,这是似乎是一个普遍现象。有住她,往她手中塞了一个面值五个苏的钱币(约多于四分之一便 士)。她的反应竟是一声近乎尖叫的哭喊,这部分是出于感激,但 多半是诧异。我想,在她看来,我这样注意到她就不是人之常情似 得。她接受了自己既是老妇人,也是“负重牲口”的社会地位。在 这里通常可以看到这样一幕:每当一家人远行时,父亲和已成年的 儿子骑着驴子走在前面,而一位老妇人则背着重重的行囊步行跟在 后面。
一天,一个不超过 四英寸高的可怜的家伙背着重重的木头,从我面前缓缓走过。我拦
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20、 But what is strange about these people is their invisibility. For several
weeks, always at about the same time of day, the file of old women had hobbled past the house with their firewood, and though they had registered themselves in my eyeballs I cannot truly say that I had seen them. Firewood was passing-that was how I saw it. It was only that one day I happened to be walking behind them, and the curious up- and-down motion of a load if wood drew my attention to the human being beneath it. Then for the first time o noticed the poor old earthcoloured bodies, bodies reduced to bones and leathery skin, bent double under the crushing weight. Yet I suppose I had not been five minutes on Moroccan soil before I noticed the overloading of the donkeys are damnably treated. The Moroccan donkey is hardly bigger than a St.Bernard dog, it carries a load which in the British Army would be considered too much for a fifteen-hands mule, and very often its packsaddle is not taken off its back for weeks together. But what is peculiarly pitiful is that it is the most willing creature on earth, it follows its master like a dog and does not need either bridle or halter. After a dozen years of devoted work it suddenly drops dead, whereupon its master tips it into the ditch and the village dogs have torn its guts out before it is cold.
然而这些人的奇特之处就在于他们几乎像是透明人。几个星期以来,几乎 每天在同一个时候,都会有一对老妇人背着柴火从我房前蹒跚而过。尽管我的 眼睛已经记录下这一幕,但仍然不能说我真正看到了她们。我所看到的只是成 捆的柴火在慢慢地向前移动。直到有一天我碰巧走在他们后面到时候,看到一 捆柴火很奇怪地时上时下,这才让我注意到原来下面还有人。这是我第一次注 意到这些可怜的老妇人土色的躯体,一些在重压之下弯曲变形、瘦骨嶙峋的躯 体。但是我觉得我来到摩洛哥还不到五分钟就已经注意到驴子的负荷过重,并 为此颇感愤怒。毫无疑问,这儿的驴子受到了虐待。摩洛哥的驴子身形几乎和 圣伯纳犬一样大小,但
它承受的负荷在英国里让一头高约一点五米的骡子 11/14
驮都嫌重,而且,它身上的驮鞍经常一连几个星期都不卸下。但是,让人觉得 尤其可悲的是,摩洛哥的驴子是地球上在温顺的动物,不需要安上笼头或者缰 绳,它就如同一条狗一样听从主人的吩咐。拼命工作几十年后,它便一下子倒 地死了,这时它就会被主人丢进沟里,在尸体变冷之前,它
的五脏六腑早已被 村狗掏出来吃掉了。
21、 This kind of thing makes one
' s blood boil, whereas- on the whole-the
plight of the human beings does not. I an not commenting, merely pointing to a fact. People with brown skins are next door to invisible. Anyone can be sorry for the donkey with its galled back, but it is generally owing to some kind of accident if one even notices the old woman under her load of sticks.
这类事情真是令人义愤填膺。然而,一般人来说,人类的困境 却没有引起同样的反响。我并不是在发表议论,而仅仅是在陈述一 个事实。棕色人近乎于无形。人人都会去同情一头脊背磨伤的驴子, 但若要注意到柴火堆下的老妇人,只能归于某种巧合。
22、 As the storks flew northward the Negroes were marching southward- a long,
dusty column, infantry, screw- gun batteries, and then more infantry, four or five thousand men in all, winding up the road with a clumping of boots and a clatter of iron wheels.
白鹤展翅北飞时,黑人却正挥军南下—一列长长的、满面 灰尘的行伍,步兵,炮兵,接着是人数更多的步兵,总共有四 五千人,正在晚宴前进,伴随着靴子的哐当声和铁轮的辘辘声。
23、 They were Senegalese, the blackest Negroes in Africa, so black that
sometimes it is difficult to see whereaboutson their necks the hair begins. Their feet squashed into boots that looked like blocks of wood, and every tin hat seemed to be a couple of sizes too small. It was very hot and the men had marched a long way. They slumped under the weight of their packs and the curiously sensitive black faces were glistening with sweat.
他们是非洲肤色最黑的塞内加尔人,黑得有时让人难以分辨出 他们的头发是从何而生的。他们壮硕的身体上穿着旧的卡其布制服, 12/14
脚上套着一双像木块似得靴子,头上戴着一顶尺码过小的钢盔。天 气异常炎热,这些黑人已经走了很长一段路了。他们疲惫不堪地背 着沉重的行李,在他们异常敏感的黑色脸颊上,汗水闪闪发光。
24、 As they went past, a tall, very young Negro turned and caught my eye.
But the look he gave me was not contemptuous, not sullen, not even
inquisitive. It was the shy, wide-eyed Negro look, which actually is a look of profound respect. I saw how it was. This wretched boy, who is a French citizen and has therefore been dragged from the forest to scrub floors and white skin. He has been taught that the white race are his masters, and he still believes it.
catch syphilis in garrison towns, actually has feelings of reverence before a
他们正经过时,一个年轻高大的黑人转过头,正好和我目光相 遇。但是他的神情完全出乎我的意料。其中没有敌意,没有轻蔑傲 慢,没有温怒愤恨,更没有好奇无知。那腼腆羞涩、双眼圆睁的神 情,实际上蕴涵了深厚的敬意。我了解这种情况。这个可怜的男孩 是法国公民,因此他从森林里被拖出来,去给驻军所在的城镇檫洗 地板,并染上了梅毒。事实上他对白人充满敌意。别人给他灌输白 人是主子的思想,对此他一直深信不疑。
25、 But there is one thought which every white man(and in this connection it
doesn ' t matter twopence if he calls himself a socialist) thinks when he sees a black army marching past. direction? ”
“ How much longer can we go on
kidding these people? How long before they turn their guns in the other
但是每个白人(包括那些自称是社会学家的人)在看到这群黑 人行军经过时,心中总会冒出这样的想法。 “我们还能继续愚弄这 些人多久?还要多久他们的口就会对准我们?”
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26、 It was curious really. Every white man there had this thought stowed
somewhere or other in his mind. I had it, so had the other onlookers, so had the officers on their sweating chargers and the white NCOs marching in the only the Negroes didn really
was like watching a flock of cattle to see the long column, a mile or two miles of armed men, flowing peacefully up the road, while the great white birds drifted over them in the opposite direction, glittering like scraps of paper.
ranks. It was a kind of secret which we all knew and were too clever to tell;
' t know it. And
这种想法真够奇怪的,在场的每个白人心里都隐藏着这种想法。 我有,其他旁观者有,骑在汗水兮兮的战马上的军官有,走在行军 队伍中的军士有。这是我们大家心照不宣的秘密,只有黑人不知道。 的确,看到这列一两英里长的队伍静静地前行,就好比在观看一列 牛群一样,掠过他们头顶的大白鹤正朝着相反的方向飞去,好像片 片白色碎纸片一样闪闪发光。
(from Reading for Rhetoric, edited by Caroline Shrodes, Clifford A. Josephson, and James R. Wilson)
(选自卡洛琳•什罗茨、克利福德A •约瑟夫森 以及詹姆士・R •威尔逊合编的《修辞读物》
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